It seemed just like any other day at Havasu, except the air was cool and
it was early August. I was on an oar trip with Wilderness, and we pulled
three snouts, two canyons, and a Maravia into the mouth of Havasu and tied
up. Down at the lower pull-in were two Wilderness motor rigs and two
Western motor rigs. A private trip pulled in and tied up two boats deep in
the mouth and used our boats as a bridge. Nine kayaks and a canoe were able
to squeeze by all the boats and skinny through the six-foot slot to paddle
to their own private dry dock near the first waterfall 100 yards upstream.
We got all the passengers off the boats and assembled them on shore to get
their premade lunches for the all-day Beaver hike we had planned. Some of
the boatmen looked up Havasu Canyon and saw a few scattered clouds, but
only enough to remind you that a flash flood is a possibility. Okie was in
charge and made a hard call due to less than perfect weather. The Beaver
hike was changed to a one hour up to the first pools and back, and then
early to camp to play volleyball. Tony Anderson had made a similar call
and already had his people coming back from a quick visit to the pools.
Western had pulled in early and had people well on their way to Beaver.
This typical, pleasantly sunny day was about to change dramatically.
After a brief visit with the Wilderness boys at the lower pull-in, myself
and a few other Wilderness boatmen returned to the boats in the mouth to
grab some food, water, and shade, along with some of the nonhiking
passengers. I lay down on my ice chest and stared up at the clouds that were
moving very quickly but provided decent patches of shade to my boat in
the sun.
Just then, a distant roar started to turn my ears up like a deer noticing
a strange sound. The roar got louder and soon revealed its identity as
distant thunder. I looked over at a passenger who was watching my peculiar
paranoia, and I lay back down. Just moments later, another low-frequency
roar began, except this time it was up Havasu Canyon and was slowly getting
louder--and rhythmic. It was a helicopter 100 feet off of the Havasu Canyon
floor coming down the canyon. For two seconds, I wondered what the hell
the chopper was doing, and then I saw a hand making a wave-like motion
much like splashing water in a pool. I screamed over the choppers roar
along with four other boatmen. "FLASH FLOOD! EVERYBODY OUT!!! OUT, OUT,
EVERYBODY OUT!! NOW!!"
It was mass confusion. Some people thought that we meant get on the boats
to leave. Parents ran around looking for their children. One parent
came up to me as I was screaming at his son, who was deep in the mouth of
the pull-in spot, trying to get the vest that was blown into the water
from the chopper. He finally heard the panic in our voices and left the
life jacket in the water and ran across the boats.
With everybody off the boats, everything seemed strangely calm. What do
we do?, I thought as I looked at the eight perfectly calm boats sitting
in the mouth. Is this a two-minute warning or a twenty-minute warning?
Should we cut the boats loose? Is this a debris flow or just a mild flood?
If we have even three minutes, we can get some of these boats out of here.
It felt like what I imagined to be a bomb on its way to destroy the boats.
Since two of the boats were almost completely out of the mouth of the
canyon, it seemed to make sense to try and move one at a time out of the
main path of the imminent water. It didn't make sense at the time to cut
the boats loose because we didn't know what was coming--since it was high
water, maybe the lake that was there in the mouth would slow down a small
flood. Standing on those boats and untying them felt like having a shoelace
caught on a train track, with a train coming full speed. We were deeply
aware of anything that might indicate the water being near, and none of us
would commit to going into the mouth where there was no immediate escape
route up the sheer 25-foot walls. We managed to untie one of the boats and
positioned it in the current of the main river--about 30 feet downstream
from what is considered to be the mouth. We went back to get the second
boat, and then we heard the horrible sounds--absolutely terrifying. The
sounds were not of the water, but of people way upstream screaming in
terror and warning those downstream. Okie and I were in the mouth and
stopped what we were doing. We sat there frozen for about ten seconds
listening to the yelling and screaming getting closer.
And then, there it was. It seemed to be coming down the canyon at
automobile speeds. I had always envisioned a flash at Havasu to be a wall
of muddy water crashing through the canyon with reckless abandon, but this
moving water was smooth and beautifully blue. It came like a wave on the
ocean, 5- to 6-feet tall, perfectly smooth, with about a 45 degree angle
to it. As the wave moved into the narrowest part near the boats, the water
instantly stood up and filled the 6-foot-wide slot completely to the top
of the cliffs with about an 80-degree, if not perfectly vertical, 10-foot
wall of blue water. Within seconds Okie and I were on the safe ledge we
had chosen as the escape route, and we watched the carnage happen.
All the ropes seemed to snap at once like popcorn well into the popping
stage. One of the boats that was tied to a "bomber" tie off, resisted the
current for about three seconds, flipped onto another raft, and slid back
into the water upside down snapping a D-ring off. Oars were swinging
everywhere as eight boats pulled out at the same time on the new muddy water
pushing them. Trees and kayaks stuck up out of the water like daggers
between rafts from all the congestion. One log about 30 feet long was
somehow lifted into a vertical position from all the debris and constriction,
and glanced off one of the boats when it crashed back down again.
There was a hellacious vortex of water where the Havasu water met the
Colorado, that violently shook and turned the boats as they exited the mouth.
The rafts floated out in the current and underneath the chopper hovering over
the Colorado. The flow seemed to be about 90 percent water and about 10
percent wood, and we began to wonder what to do if we saw any people or
bodies. An occasional life jacket, or piece of clothing would surface and
then submerge again-causing an instinctual urge to jump into the river to
help. All we could do was watch for people and watch our boats go
downstream.
The chopper pilot, Michael Moore, had saved the day. His warning was all
that was needed to get everyone to high ground. Apparently, he saw the flood
coming way upstream and broke some rules of radio contact and flight zones,
and went on the warning mission. You could easily argue that he saved a
dozen lives that day.
Everyone was running around wondering what to do. Pat Phillips thought it
wise to jump onto one of the Western boats that had already snapped one of
two Queen Mary bowlines because of the newly introduced current from
Havasu. The upstream pontoon was about 70 percent underwater, and the water
actually ripped away one of the kitchen boxes tied on the side of the
raft. The Western boat was a smart place to be to watch for people, since
everything that came out of the mouth either crashed into or went underneath
those boats. Okie, the lead on the Wilderness trip, started calling everyone
together to count heads and see what the next step was. The one snout that
was moved out of the mouth was still there in the current, but was stressing
the rope to its limit. There was a feeling that the trip was definitely
over--that there was no way we could recover a trip from this situation.
Several minutes had passed at this point, and it seemed apparent that the
chopper had done its job--there were no bodies that day.
It seemed pointless to just sit there and watch the remaining snout break
away and go downstream, so Pat and I carefully boarded the boat. The line
was so tight it was unapproachable. Brett Starks cut the line at the tie
off point with just a touch of a dull Gerber Shorty knife. Pat and I were
catapulted like an accelerating sports car into the current and bounced off
the Western boats we couldn't avoid. We had a few ideas of how we might
pull some of the boats to shore, but we were hoping that T. A. and his
motorboats didn't go too far for lunch, since the oar boats were several
minutes ahead of us.
At the mouth, the chaos had just begun. One of the passengers on the private
trip was in the water near the first pools when the flood hit and was
rammed in the ribs by a log. Unable to pull herself out of the current, she
screamed for help. Patrick (Mowgli--the ex-Marine) was there and helped her
to higher ground. A quick assessment revealed not much more than some
possible broken ribs, and an embarrassed need for Mowgli's shirt.
Near the first crossing spot, one of the passengers, struck with fear,
interpreted "get to high ground" as "scale the cliffs." Climbing in panic,
the softspoken band teacher soon realized he had climbed too far and froze
60 feet up on the cliff on a narrow ledge. Matt Penrod, an experienced
climber, began an hour and a half rescue with a harness and some climbing
equipment he acquired from the Park Service that had recently landed to
assess the situation at the river--things were mild compared to the 600
people stranded upstream near the Havasu village, and the Park Service could
only help so much. Matt scaled the 5.8-5.9 cliff to the stranded climber and
was able to assist in a 30-foot down climb to a spot where a harness could
be used to lower the passenger.
Upstream near Beaver Falls, a dozen or so passengers began a series of
harrowing chopper flights through the canyon to get back to the boats. One
of the Western boatmen made an impossible trek along the talus to get back
to the boats for help and information.
Down on the Colorado River, T. A., Christen, Aaron, and Katie came to the
rescue of the boats. They had the difficult task of pushing the boats to
shore, while driving in a bog of driftwood and debris. Pat and I met up with
T. A. just as he had pulled all the boats ashore. We righted the flipped
raft and began making triple rigs with the boats for a speedy trip down to
Tuckup. At this point, we were asked by the Park Service over the radio if
we could continue the trip. Amazingly, we accounted for every boat, including
kayaks, and gave the Park Service the thumbs up for our ability to continue.
Two Western boats, who were unable to pull in because of the flash, met up
with T. A. and took on the responsibility of transporting the equipment for
the private trip. The brigade of oar boats tied to motorboats quickly drove
down to Tuckup and met up with Jason and Mike on the Wilderness support
boat, who had also been rescuing kayaks and equipment. Every boat downstream
had kayaks filled with driftwood on board.
With all boats at Tuckup, T. A. and the Western boats went downstream to
continue their trips. And there we sat--setting up a kitchen, a chopper pad,
and listening to the aircraft radio--eighteen boats, four crew members and
45 people upstream.
Hours passed, and at Havasu the stream slowly began to diminish. Some spots
became crossable with the assistance of life jackets, some strong shoulders,
and lines strung across the river. The whole process of getting everyone
back to the boats was horrendously slow, and people began to approach their
limits. To make matters worse, a severe thunderstorm was rolling in and
nightfall was approaching. All the Park Service could do was to make a
final drop of food supplies and life jackets, and take off into a dark
and stormy night. With 90 people rain gear-less and shivering, the crew
members made the call to get to Tuckup via the two Western rigs. The boats
were heavy and slow and extremely wet from splashing. To make matters worse,
walls of rain began dumping on the rafts. The lightning was flashing like
a bad discotheque, dozens of waterfalls crashed off every cliff, and the
last mile was driven in complete darkness.
At Tuckup, the chaos began again. Ninety people pulled into camp in a
horrendous rainstorm, all looking for their bags and equipment strung about
like a chaotic yard sale. No one could find anything in all the chaos. The
halogen flood lamp and the generator saved the day. With light on the scene
and the smell of hot food cooking, people were able to get situated. Some
shivering children were quickly taken to the shelter of an overhang and
bundled up in dry sleeping bags. With the camp situated, food in our bellies,
bodies warmed, and fears behind, ninety people went to bed that night with a
memory of a lifetime.
In looking back on that day, I think the most impressive aspect of how
everything came together was the reactions of the people involved. Every
passenger and crew member rose to meet the occasion. There was no time for
judgment or ego. Some people became leaders, some people became invaluable
followers. Virtually every decision was logical, and the first priority was
always safety. The Park Service was there and gave exactly what help was
needed. The chopper pilot made the move that he knew he had to make--rules or
no rules, he couldn't have lived with himself had someone died that day.
From a humanistic perspective, I think the most impressive thing that happened
that day was that people found that they had limits beyond what they knew
about themselves. I think when people are pushed beyond their known limits,
a strengthening of spirit occurs and there is a rekindling of what our real
values are in life--being alive with loved ones--having a healthy body.
On behalf of everyone involved with that incident, I would like to thank
the chopper pilot, Michael Moore, for his brilliant job of warning everyone
in Havasu Canyon. I'm sure that there are dozens of incidents deserving of
praise and recognition, and I apologize for not being able to include these
in this story. My personal view is that the crew members of Western and
Wilderness orchestrated a brilliant recovery from that day and that the
situation could not have been handled in a better way. The Park Service, as
always, fit perfectly into the recovery, and a special thanks should go to
all who were there.