By Rosie CohanOne man's efforts to preserve traditional culture as tourism changes his community. Pink skid marks faded to purple in the blackening sky as lights popped on across Goreme, the stony Turkish village below me. I had checked into my room and then saw my friend, Ali, sitting alone on the terrace of the hotel he had built within the cave walls where his family had originally lived. Cave homes had been a common form of habitation in this rugged land. Ali’s chair was turned toward the dark valleys on the opposite side of the illuminated village.